Ikat is the meticulous technique of tying and dyeing the warp or weft or may be both before being woven into a textile form. Single Ikat fabric are created by interweaving tied and dyed warp with plain weft or resisted weft yarns is inserted in plain weft. Double ikat involves the process of resisting on both warp and weft and then interlacing them to form intricate yet well composed patterns.
Emerging notions of affordability and transforming profile of modern Indian women have made a big difference in the perception of the Sari. New developments in the sari, its designs and patterns, color combinations and contrasts, variety of materials and techniques are rekindling the interest of customers for the sari as a dressing option.
The single as well as double Ikat Patola sari from Surendranagar and Rajkot region of Gujarat has developed keeping the emerging new trend and demand in the market. This style has materialized strongly in last three decades in order to provide a cheaper option to celebrated Patan Patola varieties. Traditional double-ikat patola weaving technique from Patan in North Gujarat is highly intricate, labor intensive and one of the high cost production of Indian handlooms. Due to its intricacies and use of natural materials, Patan Patola can be the costliest of all sari varieties woven. The Surendranagar and Rajkot patola are a low-cost variation of the traditional technique, using cheaper raw materials leading to an affordable range of products.
Traditional Trivia
A few years back Rashtriya shala in Rajkot invited one of the Salvi Patola experts from Patan and held a ikat workshop in the campus providing training to weavers in that area. With time these weavers developed their own style of Ikat using similar patterns but with a different color palette and material range. Government is patronizing the low-cost Patola weaving as it promotes employment for many handloom weavers in rural areas. A number of welfare and sustenance projects are being run by the government to popularize this patola weaving in Gujarat. Private traders also support this variant as it has vast market of readily available customers from Indian middle class and lower middle class who otherwise cannot afford a genuine Patola. With the huge cost savings in production and a perceived liking due to affordability factor, the Surendranagar and Rajkot Patola has became very popular in local markets of Gujarat in the previous decade. This has brought in positive changes in the lives of the many handloom weaver families who otherwise were not finding enough work.
Community Involved
Wankar and Maheshwari community is involved in this craft form.
Raw Materials Used
- Rayon
- Artificial silk
- Cotton
- Chemical Dyes