Marvelously dazzling, bright and picturesque Brocades of Gujarat have been stealing attention and admiration over centuries. The distinctive zari intermingled with bright and lustrous colors of silk make any festive or ceremonial occasion special and memorable. Opulently woven brocade saris, lavishly embellished chaniya-cholis or other garments are almost like an unsaid compulsory adornment of a wedding or festivals.
Gujarat has always been known as a chief brocade weaving center. Decorative elements of the splendid architecture have been adapted by the weavers to flaunt dexterity and creative sensibility of the artisans of the state. Floral borders, zalis or trellises and multifarious geometrical motifs of the historical structures are delicately woven with zari on silk surfaces.
The rich and opulent color schemes in contrasting yet harmonizing hues make these brocades visually appealing and objects of desire. Reds, blues, yellows, greens, ochres, browns in various shades and tones blended along with dazzling gold and silver make brocades collectable items as well as one of the most festive textile.
Traditional Trivia
Brocades in India have been known to be part of textile traditions over centuries. In Gujarat historical evidences confirm that there was a thriving brocade industry and workshops existed in Bharuch, Cambay and Ahmedabad each having their own distinctive style. Historical accounts also take note of beautifully intricate borders and pallus of Ashavali saris which were woven by master craftsmen even before the advent of Ahmed Shah.
Ahmedabad, Surat, Bharuch, Patan and Vadodara were the main weaving centers for these saris. After the arrival of Islam geometrical patterns and motifs from the Indo-Sarcenic architecture of that period were incorporated into the design palette along with abstraction of animals and birds.
Though the design detailing and the play with motifs remained external influences especially from the Mughal court and Persia resulted in heavier and richer forms of brocade, some of which graced the Jharokhas at Fatehpur Sikri. Brocaded sashes and angarakshaks were also modified after Gujarati craftsmen were infused with design suggestions from the Oxus which was an ancient trading partner.
Saris, clothing and accessories apart the art of brocade found a flowering and patronage in religion. A variety of different patterns depicting the actions of Krishna and the Gopis were commissioned as Pichvais or temple hangings. The Vallabhacharya sect of Vaishnavites also commissioned a series of temple accessories for their household temples.
Community Involved
Wankar and Maheshwari community is involved in this craft form.
Raw Materials Used
- Silk
- Zari