Aari or mochi embroidery of Gujarat is an outstanding craftsmanship exuding beauty for the beholder and artistic flair of the creator. Intricate and fine chain stitch flows in the most poetic fashion to create any kind of complex or simple pattern. The expressive flamboyancy of the technique adds in flavor of painterly attributes making the medium significantly favored and admired by all.
Deriving its name from the aari or hook which was also used by the mochis or cobblers, the splendor of aari bharat is simply inimitable. The fabric is usually spread on a frame and the thread is held below the material and the pointed notch is pushed through the cloth, creating a movement forming series of chain stitches following one after the other. Traditionally executed on shimmering surface of gajji or silk, the embroidery is one of the most splendid forms of embellishment which was favored by people of all strata of society.
The flexibility of the medium allows varied range of motifs to adorn garments and home accessories in vibrant rich colors. Butis or floral motifs, parrots and peacocks and figurative illustration of maidens embellish the fabric surface with realistic exuberance and verve of nature. Animals, birds and human figures created with detailed delicacy bring out the animated spirit of the depicted forms. Color gradations are created by using shades and tints of varied bright hues. The most eminent aspect of this embroidery technique is the quality of depth being created in each form, which is sometimes adorned with tiny mirrors or sequins.
Traditional Trivia
Mochi or aari bharat is one of the embroidery techniques which was done both for personal and commercial use. It is an adaptation of the cobbler's stitch which was executed by the mochis or cobblers on leather goods and later translated the medium to fabric. Traditionally the mochis in Kutch and Saurashtra region used this technique to create glorious textile products for the court, merchants and landowners. This style of embellishment which was meant for commercial purposes developed aestheticaly and had deep influence on the design psyche of folk styles in that region.
It was implemented on satin silk or gajji fabric with glossy silk yarns and the Jadeja ruler in Kutch commissioned the mochis to fashion garments embellished in this style. The motifs and colors were adapted by other local communities using coarse fabric and cotton yarn for needle work meant for their personal use. Bhuj in Kutch district remained the main center of aari production till the day and age of royal patronage continued. Eventually with time and lack of commission, the heydays of aari bharat came to a halt. At present it is being done in many parts of the state but the brilliance which was created for regal patrons has become quite difficult to achieve in the present circumstances as today contemporary patrons are no longer able to appreciate the delicacies, cost and time this textile art takes
Community Involved
Aari Community has been involved in this craft traditionally, though today it is being practiced by many others for commercial purposes.
Raw Materials Used
- Silk fabric
- Silk yarns for embroidery
- Abhla or mirrors