Ahir embroidery of Gujarat, an exuberant dexterity of ornately endowed circles following one another in a rhythmic row of embroidered patterns, enhances character and verve of contemporary textile pieces. Little circular mirrors encircled with chain stitch forming geometrical and abstract patterns, enriches any garment or home furnishing with the flavor and fervor of natural simplicity.
Vividly colored repertoire of limited stitches amid glittering pieces of mirrors embellishing cotton, silk and wool fabrics appeal every soul and heart! Sankli or chain stitch used for outlining and vana or herringbone stitch utilized for filling along with bakhiya and dana serving the purpose of detailing or filling, encompasses the gamut of stitches which enriches the identity of Ahir embroidery.
The needled embellished technique practiced by the pastoral Ahir community women reflects minimalism and is highly inspired by flora and fauna surrounding them. Flowers created by repetitive usage of circles, peacocks and parrots blending accordingly, Kanta stitch inspired by the local babool tree thorn and other nature inspired motifs mirror their alliance with nature.
Traditional Trivia
Ahir, the cowherd community inhabiting in Gujarat are considered to be the descendants of Lord Krishna and supposedly migrated along with him from Mathura centuries ago. Ahir, the name finds its origin in the Sanskrit word Abhira, literally meaning fearless. Historically a nomadic community which has now settled down, identifies themselves as the Gopas or herdsmen who came to Dwarka along with Krishna and follow the Gop culture. Ahir women usually wore black to mourn Krishna’s death and Radha, Krishna’s adored Gopi is also deemed to have been an Ahir woman.
Embroidery plays a significant role in the Ahir household, chaklas, torans, godali quilts, cushion or pillow covers and other pieces of textiles are embroidered popularly by the Ahir women, making their living spaces a rich compilation of colors and forms. Embroidery in red, green, brown, orange and yellow colors with white used for contrasting highlights and lots of rounded embroidery predominate the costumes of young women in the community and sets them aside from the plain and simple attire of the older women.
Traditionally Ahir embroidered textiles mainly used mashru as the base fabric for products like ghaghras or odhanis. Colors and stripe pattern of the mashru fabric were harmoniously complimented with contrasting hues and distinctly circular patterns of Ahir embroidery. This trend seem to have been taken over by synthetic, gaudy fabrics available in local markets
Community Involved
Aahir Community
Raw Materials Used
- Silk, Cotton and wool fabrics
- Embroidery threads of varied colors
- Abla or cicular mirrors.