Dense, compact style of Paako bharat using a riot of colors, bearing aesthetical balance and contrast enhances the glory of any textile piece regardless of its functionality. The bold and constant patterns giving more emphasis to the created positive space defines Paako bharat, which literally means solid. Square chain and buttonhole stitches along with tiny pieces of mirror add an opaque veneer to the embroidery which is considered to be the most durable of its kind. The unique identity of this needled embellishment is the use of black color for outlining utilizing slanted satin stitch.
Kharek, the name itself is reminiscent of the tactile textural quality of Dates tree and the Kharek bharat is an exultant inspiration of the form. It is a geometric style of needlework created by counting the structural make up of the fabric. The pattern is primarily executed with black outline of double running stitch and then the surface front is filled in with bar-shaped clusters of satin stitches along the warp and weft of the textile.
Both the techniques of Paako and Kharek practiced by women of the same community create an elegantly impenetrable appearance on any product ranging from bags to home furnishings to garments.
Traditional Trivia
The origin of Paako and Kharek bharat goes back to Sindh and was brought to the regions of Banni by Meghwals and Islamic pastoralists who migrated from the region. Both these distinct styles of embroideries are traditionally being practiced by Meghwal and Sodha Rajput communities and though there is an ever-going debate on which community originally brought it in the country, a mutual influence of both on each other cannot be denied. Both these communities also specialize in Suf embroidery.
All the embroidery styles practiced by these communities reflect their cultural temperament, including marriage and trousseaus traditions. Domestic embroidery styles of Suf, Paako, Kharek and many others fashioned richly embellished textile products which formed part of trousseaus. The preference of embroidery style always depends on the usability or functionality of the product. Delicate and fragile stitches of Suf and Kharek are always apt for wearable textiles or products which do not go through much wear and tear. Whereas Paako bharat with its sturdy and durable quality of execution are favored for firm functional products.
Community Involved
Meghwal and Sodha Rajput communities residing in Kutch practice these embroideries.
Raw Materials Used
- Cotton, Silk, Wool fabrics
- Embroidery Yarns of varied hues
- Little mirrors or beads used as accessories
Tools and Equipments
- Needles