Mutwa Bharat is one of the most intricate and meticulous form of embellishment which intensifies the elegance and flamboyance of any textile product. Inlaid with tiny round shaped mirrors and adorned with minuscule stitches, Mutwa bharat is like a verse dedicated to skill and creation. This beautiful and exquisite form of embroidery which takes months to be created portrays chic spirit and is like a jewel in collector’s reserve.
Ornamental patterns encircling miniature mirrors and tiny dots edging patterns in a ring like shape create identity of this skilled technique. Diminutive variations of other local embroidery styles like Paako, Kharek, haramji and Jat form an intrinsic part of Mutwa repertoire of stitches. Mutwa embroidery quite often is recognized by the distinctive use of stitches like square chain to form three or five petal floral motifs and emphasized by the use of white outline created by running stitch. A similar style of technique is also practiced in the Arabian Peninsula which shows resemblance and association with Memon and Baluchi styles of embroidery.
The varied collection of motifs used in Mutwa embroidery almost compliments the diverse stitches used in this art form. Star-shaped bhido with tiny mirrors, fuladi and chikan floral motifs, kucho, chopad etc are some of the traditional motifs which add in verve and beauty to Mutwa Bharat.
Traditional Trivia
Mutwas are a small group of Muslim herders inhabiting in the Banni areas of Gujarat. It is alleged that almost 500 years ago their ancestors migrated from Saudi Arabia to Sindh and then moved to Kutch about 150 years back. This Arbistani origin community still follows Bedouin faith and is culturally quite dissimilar from the other communities belonging to Thar Parkar origin.
The art of Mutwa embroidery is part of the wedding trousseaus, along with other goods like jewelry, utensils etc. Mutwa girls begin learning and preparing these magnificent work of art from the young age of 7-8. The fine gamut of stitches and aesthetic appeal of colors and composition, though an inherent quality is also handed down generations from mother to daughter.
The vibrant and radiant colors of Mutwa embroidery offer a pleasing contrast amid the barren arid salt planes of Banni. The use of square chain stitching in orange along with white emphasis show a close resemblance between the Mutwa embroidery and a particular style of needlework practiced in Saudi Arabia.
Community Involved
Mutwa Community inhabiting Banni region of Gujarat practice this art form
Raw Materials Used
- Cotton or wool fabric
- Threads for embroidery
- Beads or mirrors as accessories
Tools and Equipments
- Needle